Breeding Rabbits

Breeding Rabbit in Commercial Scale

2011-04-24T06:24:00.004+07:00

Rabbit breeding may be something of a cliché when it comes to the wild, but if you are planning to launch a commercial rabbit farming enterprise, then there are a few things you will need to know about how to successfully breed rabbits in captivity. That is because commercial rabbit production needs to be predictable and manageable. Basically, you need to plan.

The first thing you need to know is that rabbits can only be bred once they reach physical and sexual maturity. Depending on the breed, you choose to farm with, that could be anything from four to seven months old. That is why it is sometimes better to invest in an older breeding pair than to buy baby rabbits, and wait for them to mature.

You will also need to consider the type of rabbit breeding you want to be involved in. Farmers who breed for meat purposes don't have to be overly concerned about the appearance of their breeding stock, their lineage or their physical attributes, but those who are breeding for show purposes, or for wool production (as is the case with angora rabbits) will need to consider genetics and more when deciding on their breeding schedule.

The average doe that is being bred to produce a litter for meat production will be bred on a thirty-five day schedule, which allows enough time for recovery after a litter of kits, and ensures that she will be receptive to her mate. It is usually a good idea to check your breeding does for general health before mating them again, as rabbits that are in ill-health will not produce a quality litter.

Bucks that are used for stud purposes are usually mated once a day, although they are able to mate more often than this. It's usually also a good idea to rest a stud buck in between mating, if he will be required to perform more than once a day.

The mating process itself is fairly simple. A doe is selected, and then moved to the buck's cage. This is done because does tend to be territorial, and are less likely to mate in their own cage. Mating should occur almost instantly if the doe is ready to breed, and many farmers allow their breeding pairs to mate twice, to ensure that the mating 'takes.'

Around twenty-eight to thirty-two days after the mating, the doe will produce a litter, which may include as many as a dozen kits, and those kits will mature enough to eat on their own within two weeks of birth.

Even in the wild, a single doe can produce up to eight hundred children, grand children and great grand children in a single breeding season (which in the case of rabbits, is nine months of the year.) It is easy to see, therefore, how a few quality-breeding pairs can stock a commercial rabbitry on their own in less than a year.

The secret to successful, commercially viable rabbit production is usually a good rabbit breeding program, which allows your breeding pairs enough rest in between litters.

Learn from Breeding Rabbit in The Wild

2011-04-24T06:15:00.003+07:00

If you are wondering about rabbit breeding, then you should understand that there is a good reason that the saying 'breeds like rabbits' means rampant reproduction!

In the wild, a single doe can mother a line of descendants that can number as many as eight hundred in a single breeding season! Of course, since rabbits are also at the bottom of the food chain, many of those offspring will not survive to adulthood, but there is a lot the commercial rabbit farmer can learn from rabbit breeding patterns in the wild.

The first thing you should understand about rabbits is that they need to be sexually and physically mature before they breed. In the wild, rabbits will not breed until they are about four to seven months old, depending on their species. Then there is the fact that rabbits are reflex ovulators. If a female rabbit does not mate, she will not ovulate. Rabbits will also naturally rest for about three months of the year, usually starting in late summer, before they recommence breeding. It is always wise, in a commercial setting, to ensure that your breeding stock, and particularly does, also have a regular rest between litters, as this will ensure that they do not burn out before their time.

Since you can control the climate to a degree, when you are running a commercial rabbitry, this rest period need not be during a particular season - you could stagger your breeding program to ensure that you always have new stock being born, while still resting your does for around three months of the year.

If you observe rabbits in the wild, you will notice that does are fiercely protective - particularly around males. Ensure that your does have nesting boxes in their cages too, and they will naturally pull out their own fur to line them, while at the same time exposing their nipples for the kits.

Rabbit breeding is certainly a lot less difficult than breeding many other commercial animals, yet there are tricks, like these, that will make your rabbit farming production endeavours a lot more successful.

Successfully Breeding Mini Lop Rabbit

2011-03-29T19:47:00.003+07:00

If you want to successfully breed Mini Lop rabbit is you have to really run as a professional breeder. There are a number of reasons for this. Rabbits are very easy to breed. This would be a problem if you do not have a good market. Young rabbits grow very fast and are sexually active after eight weeks, so the process continues without interruption.

If you already have a good market then this is not an obstacle for you to breed rabbits mini loop systematically.

Select rabbit who has a history of good breeding productivity and strong genes.
Have a note to know the derivation of superior rabbits as parent.
Choose a rabbit out of the same race.
Accuracy in checking pregnancy 10-14 days after breeding.

This can be found by feeling the abdomen down the rabbit as it is a small marbles. You have to separate them in the nest box. The period of pregnancy is about 31 days. little rabbits born in still closed eye and surrounded by the parent rabbit fur. Usually about 4 -10 little rabbits.

Breeding Rabbits: Holland Lop Rabbits

2010-05-18T20:55:00.002+07:00

What Your Need to Know About These Adorable Rabbits!

Holland Lop rabbits are a breed of rabbit whose origin is from the Netherlands. This breed of rabbit was recognised in 1964 by the Rabbit Council of Netherland and in 1979 by the Rabbit-Breeders' Association in America.

The Holland Lop rabbits are well known house pets and a popular for possessing a non-aggressive behaviour and a sweet temperament. They are juniors till they are 6 months old. From 7 months onwards, they are considered as seniors.

This breed came into existence when a rabbit breeder named Adriann de Cock from the Netherlands sought to breed the Netherlands Dwarf buck and the Fresh Lop doe. After several attempts of breeding and interbreeding of the litter, he came up with the Holland Lops. De Cock's Holland Lops were 2.4 or 3 kilograms in size. He then came up with the most desirable less than two kilograms of weight specimens and he presented them to the Rabbit Council of Netherlands. After this, the Holland Lop got recognition as a new rabbit breed.

The Holland Lop rabbits are well-liked and are popular among several breeders, pet owners and rabbit enthusiasts due to their inherent attractiveness and compact size. This is one of the smallest rabbit breed in the lop-eared category. Their muscular-appearing stocky body can be characterised by short-thick legs, deep chests and bread shoulders. They usually are white, black, broken black and tortoise-shell shade in colour. The Holland Lops comes under the dwarf category. The Holland Lops grow and live normally and can easily weigh up to 5 ½ lbs. The ears of a Holland Lop hang down 1 inch under their jawbone. They have their heads high on their shoulders.

It is essential for the owners of this breed to keep the weight of the rabbit in control. Take precautions so that the rabbit does not become too fat. Reproductive problems could arise id fat gets accumulated around the ovaries. Hence, keeping a Holland Lop's weight under control will ensure good health.

Though the Holland Lop rabbits are small in size, they are known to be quite playful and active. Hence, when kept as a pet it is advisable to cage them in a cage that is spacious. This rabbit breed is also a good choice for a first time rabbit owner. In certain cases, they ted to be a little hyper and skittish, so handle them a little carefully.

Breeding Rabbits: How to Care For the Dwarf Rabbit Breed

2010-05-18T20:53:00.002+07:00

Dwarf Rabbits are one of the best and cutest animals that are being kept as pets. They are one of the smallest domestic breed rabbits and the origin of these rabbits is from Europe. After dogs and cats, dwarf rabbits are one of the most loved pets in England and America. These docile pets are adorable and cute. Kids love them, they look very sweet, and you can give it as a gift to your near and dear ones. Therefore, whenever you buy a dwarf rabbits be cautious to take good care of them. To ensure proper Dwarf rabbits care you need to find a suitable place where they can stay and breed.

Many people all around the world are keeping rabbits for three reasons and they are: interest, breeding, and butchering. These rabbits are also known as the Netherlands Dwarf Rabbits, as they were found in 1900 in the Netherlands. The normal weight of a dwarf rabbit is around 0.7-1.4 kg with thick fur and a round body. They look shiny and soft and have a large head with small ears. It is very easy to identify them without too much of problem as in comparison with other breeds of rabbit.

Dwarf Rabbits basically come in twenty four colors together with smoke pearl, chocolate, tortoiseshell, opal, chestnut, black, orange, etc. They are obedient and gentle creatures. These rabbits normally do not create too much of a problem. Proper care includes keeping these animals in a warm place in winter and a mild place during the summer season.

Give them proper diet foods like carrot, hay, green vegetables, and fresh fruit. You need to give them a proper diet if you want to keep them nice and healthy. Rabbits are hard-core eaters; they chew and eat anything that comes their way. With this, many times dwarf rabbits face digestive problems and other health disorders. It may be a good idea to provide digestive pills every week. This will control their gastrointestinal problems and other ill symptoms due to overeating.

You can see many people have kept these tiny lovely creatures for breeding purpose and they are getting good results. People are also keeping these animals for butchering because the meat of these animals is in high demand and are very tasty and people really love it.

Breeding Rabbits: 4 Critical Considerations Before You Begin to Breed Rabbits

2010-05-18T20:51:00.001+07:00

When it comes to rabbit breeding, there are many things to consider and learn before you can really consider yourself somewhat knowledgeable about it. There are certain rules that you must not break such as breeding brothers to sisters should never be done. Other combinations, however, should be fine such as father to daughter, mother to son and so on. Of course, until you gain enough knowledge about how their genetics work, it is recommended that you don't breed closely related pairs. Also, you should only mate pairs of the same breed unless you are breeding them for their meat or as pets. This is because you will not be able to sell a rabbit that has mixed block and does not have a background that goes back 4 generations. Besides the ones mentioned above, there are more things to consider when it comes to rabbit breeding. Here are a few more:

- You should never keep more than one rabbit in each cage especially if the rabbit is 3 months or older. This is because rabbits actually mature faster when they are alone. They will not fight nor breed and this basically eliminates unexpected results.

- Before you begin rabbit breeding, do check the bottom of their cage for any signs of loose stools or diarrhea. If you find a rabbit with these conditions, do not breed it with another unless it's been properly treated. Also, do check for other signs of infections that might require medical treatment.

- Some people would leave the doe overnight with the buck whilst others put the doe in and remover her once they have mated. If you do this, it would be best to put the doe back in the buck's cage within 2- 12 hours after the initial breeding. Doing so would increase the likelihood of pregnancy and might even increase the number of offspring.

- Avoid breeding rabbits that have defects such as tooth malocclusion or moon eye because it is highly likely that they would pass the same genetic effects to their offspring thus eliminating them from being candidates for rabbit breeding purposes.

Lastly, rabbit breeding requires a lot of work and research. Of course, proper planning is a must because otherwise, your chances of failing would only increase. So, before you even begin your new hobby do consider learning more about it as well as the genetics of the rabbits. This would give you the knowledge you need and help you make better and wiser decisions.

Breeding Rabbits: Do's and Don'ts When You Breed Rabbits

2010-05-18T20:49:00.003+07:00

When it comes to breeding rabbits, one should not only know about the proper care for them but also the genetics involved. There are certain rules to follow when it comes to properly breeding rabbits and in order to produce the best, you have to keep in line with them. Whilst some people might think of breeding rabbits as a simple task to accomplish, it is not always this way. First off, let's talk about the basics. A small breed doe or female rabbit is ready to mate by the time she reaches 5 months old. On the other hand, a buck or a male rabbit would be ready once he reaches 6 months old. Typically, it would be wise to breed rabbits whose ancestries have proof of good genetics and overall great productivity. For this reason, you would need the pedigree listings and various show winnings. In fact, as a breeder, you should keep your own records as well. As for the ratio, you can keep it at 1:10 if you wish. That is, 1 buck to 10 does. The buck would be able to breed up to 7 times a week effectively.

Now, let's talk about the do's and don'ts of breeding rabbits.

- Do mate rabbits of the same breed. The only exception to this rule would be breeding for the sake of meat or pets. Otherwise, you may not mate rabbits that aren't of the same breed. This is because you won't be able to sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood and can't trace its background for up to 4 generations.

- Don't keep more than one rabbit in a single cage. This is imperative once the rabbit reaches 3 months or older. The reason for this is the fact that rabbits actually mature faster when they are kept in solitude.

- If you feel like you are ready to start breeding rabbits, bring the doe to the buck's cage. Don't do it the other way around because the buck would be to busy sniffing around the doe's cage to even pay attention to mating.

- There are people who live the doe in the buck's cage overnight whilst there are those who take the doe out once the 2 rabbits have mated. If you choose to go with the latter, you need to put the doe back in after a couple or more hours as this would actually increase the likelihood of pregnancy and might even increase the number of offspring.

Quite obviously breeding rabbits isn't as easy as it seems. However, with enough effort and research, you would be able to do it correctly. After all, breeding rabbits is a science and is something that everyone can learn given enough time to do it.

Breeding Rabbits: Raising Meat Pen Rabbits For Competition

2010-05-18T20:46:00.002+07:00

Many fairs and rabbit shows have a class called a Meat Pen. If you are buying rabbits for a 4H project, this may be one of the options you want to try. To compete in a meat pen class, you must have three young rabbits that are ten weeks old or younger from the same litter. They each need to weigh between three and five pounds. The winning pen will contain three rabbits that are almost identical in appearance, weight and condition.

It is best to prepare by knowing the rules for showing meat pens before you begin. Join the American Rabbit Breeders Association and purchase the Standard of Perfection. This will let you learn about all the breeds recognized by the association and learn the rules for showing meat pens as well as showing individual rabbits, competing in fur and other classes. When you join ARBA, you will receive a book that teaches you about caring for rabbits properly. The book covers show rabbits, meat rabbits and pets.

You can raise your meat pen from litters born to your own rabbits, or you can purchase a meat pen from a rabbit breeder. Most meat pens are purchased when the rabbits are between four and five weeks old. This allows you to raise them yourself to the proper weight and age for competition.

Meat pen competitions are dominated by New Zealand Whites and Californians. These two breeds are most frequently raised for meat, so they have been bred to develop quickly. Other breeds that you may see in meat pens include New Zealand Reds or Blacks, Champagne D'Argents, Palominos, American Sables, Chinchillas, Cinnamons, Crème D'Argents, Rex, Satins, Silver Fox, and Silver Martens. All of these breeds have been raised to provide nutritious meals to families all over.

If you are breeding your own meat pen, count back ten weeks from the date of your show. This is when the rabbits must be born. Your doe must be bred four weeks before that, since gestation is between 28 and 31 days. If you don't have breeding stock, it is best to start looking for some at least four or five months before the show. Does should be a minimum of six months old before they are bred. If you are waiting on a single doe, you may end up without a litter. Your best bet to get the best meat pen possible is to breed several does at that time. If you have the time, let them have a litter before you need to breed for your show. This lets them learn how to parent their babies and you'll have fewer mishaps.

When buying stock, you'll need to weigh your options between buying from a commercial rabbit breeder and someone who raises show stock. Ideally, you want rabbits that will grow fast like those developed by commercial breeders, yet at the same time, they need to fit the standard for their breed like show rabbits do. Go to a rabbit show if you can and meet the breeders of the types of rabbits you are considering. Even if they don't have stock for you to purchase, they may have contacts with others or be able to give you good advice on what to look for and how to achieve your goals.

Breeding Rabbits: Rabbit Hutches For Breeders

2010-05-18T20:43:00.002+07:00

Some avid rabbit enthusiasts become so enamored with these wonderful animals that they decide to take up rabbit breeding. Their intent is to first experience the joy of welcoming new life into the world and providing a supportive environment necessary for growth; and then to share the results of their efforts with the world: quality bunnies!

If you're considering breeding, you should already be aware that you will need to do a lot of homework to learn what you need to know to successfully produce and raise quality litters. One primary issue will be housing. If you have a large home it is possible to house the breeding quarters indoors, in an enclosed porch or a basement. But most breeders look to outdoor rabbit hutches.

For the skilled, building your own custom hutch arrangement is a possibility which will not only allow you to customize a breeding hutch to the available space in your yard, but also will give you a genuine sense of pride in your accomplishment. Many of us would love to point to something and say, "I made that!"

If you lack building skills, there are plenty of commercially available rabbit hutches from which to choose. Search the Internet and you'll find a wide variety of options. Most involve variations of stackable units. Some of the better wooden ones lock together with a tongue and groove design. In addition, they have removable partitions between individual units, allowing you to expand the size of the living space as bunnies grow.

If stackable units won't work for you, there are breeder hutches that have individual living compartments built into a single unit. You can get them in two tier, three tier, and even four tier units. With all these breeder hutches you need to be aware that the living quarters are small. In time you will need to provide some form of rabbit run for proper exercise. This is far preferable to allowing bunnies to roam the yard free as they can go places they shouldn't and can be hard to catch!

As you research the ins and outs of breeding rabbits, one issue should be foremost in your thinking. What do you plan to do with the rabbits you breed? If you think this can be a money-making venture, think again. Spend some time on the Internet Pet Discussion Forums and you'll find out why it can be difficult to turn a profit.

If you are doing this for your own enjoyment because you love bunnies; remember that they grow up. Then what? Again check the Discussion Forums and you'll hear tales of rabbit rescue groups overwhelmed with adult rabbits no one wants.

Breeding any pet animal in a world overrun with unloved, unwanted pets is a serious responsibility, not to be taken lightly. Think about the needs of the rabbits you will be bringing into the world instead of just on your own needs. Find other rabbit breeders in your area and visit them. People with a passion for pets love to share that passion with others. See what kind of living arrangements they have found to be the most advantageous, both for them and the rabbits. And most importantly, learn what they do with those lovely bunnies when they reach adulthood.

Breeding Rabbits: All About Rabbit Breeding

2010-05-18T20:42:00.002+07:00

We all know how fast a female rabbit gives birth and how many babies it could deliver in one pregnancy. Because of this, there is an influx in rabbits without homes in animal shelters because owners just don't know where to put them anymore.

For you to avoid adding to the rabbits with no homes living in cramped cages in animal shelters, you have to be a responsible pet owner and make sure that your rabbit's breeding is under supervision.

The first thing you need to know is that unlike dogs, rabbits do not have a specific heat season. Your female rabbit is ready to mate anytime of the year and can conceive as soon as it is 3 months old.

One conception could give birth to an average of six kits (baby rabbits) which means that there are six new mouths to feed in your family. If you plan on taking care of them, you better separate the males from the females since they might reproduce again as soon as they are mature enough.

Remember that rabbits for pet purposes can be found in various animal shelters so you need not breed one of your own to give to your friends. In fact, only rabbits from the same pedigree should be bred to preserve its bloodlines.

Owning a pair of rabbits is not an easy task especially when they are both mature enough to reproduce. If you do not plan on separating them, at least put them in two separate cages that have wired walls so that they could still see each other. Rabbits, like dogs and cats, are continuously being left in shelters with no one to care for. Instead of adding to this population, promote adoption to get a cute furry baby out of there and into the loving arms of someone you know.

Breeding Rabbits: What You Need to Know About Breeding Your Rabbits

2010-05-18T20:40:00.001+07:00

Raising rabbits can be very rewarding. Before you begin, however, ask yourself why you want to breed rabbits. People breed rabbits for many reasons. They may raise them to feed their families or to sell to restaurants and stores. They may breed them because they show rabbits in 4H or in American Rabbit Breeders Association shows. What are your reasons?

Purebred rabbits are a must if you want to show them. Join the American Rabbit Breeders Association and study their Standard of Perfection. Choose a breed that appeals to you and get the best stock you can afford.

If you want to supplement your food budget, most meat breeders use New Zealand rabbits crossed with Californian rabbits. They develop and grow quickly to marketable size. Other breeds also make terrific meat rabbits, but they grow a little slower. In fact, many of the breeds you'll see at shows started out as meat breeds.

If you won't be eating them, what will you do with the babies? Selling pets may not always be a reliable way to find them homes. Those who show will only buy animals that are high quality and meet the breed standard. Show animals must also be pedigreed. You will need to keep records of when your does are bred, when they kindle, how many were born, and who belongs on the pedigree.

Each doe needs her own cage. It must be large enough to be comfortable for her, include a nestbox, and hold the growing litter. Each buck also needs his own cage. Most breeds can produce babies safely once they reach the age of six months. Larger breeds may take longer to mature.

When you want to breed, place the doe in the buck's cage. If you put the buck in the doe's cage, she may attack him. Does can be very territorial. While the doe is in the buck's cage, keep an eye on them. If they begin to fight, they will need to be separated. The buck may chase the doe around the cage. This is fine. It may take a few attempts before the doe decides she is ready. Once the buck mounts properly, and he may do this improperly many times, you'll know if the breeding was successful if he falls off. You may want to let the buck try again before removing the doe.

Write down the breeding date on the calendar and count out 28 days. This is when you need to give the doe her nestbox and lots of hay. The doe will make a nice nest. She will pull fur right before she gives birth. Rabbits usually give birth 28 to 31 days after breeding. If you find the babies outside the box, put them in and cover them with fur if they are still alive.

Most does have no problem producing a litter and caring for them. They will nurse the babies once or twice per day, spending only a few minutes with them. This is normal. Sometimes the doe doesn't conceive and there is no litter. Sometimes the doe will deliver dead babies or savage them. It is not always known why. Babies should be weaned at 6 to 8 weeks of age.

Breeding Rabbits: Build a Rabbit Cage For Breeding Rabbits

2010-05-18T20:39:00.002+07:00

Many people are starting to breed rabbits to provide food for their table. The reasons range from the cost of food at the grocery store to the desire to get away from commercial meat that has been raised on antibiotics and poor food. Rabbit meat is tasty and low in fat. Domestic rabbit is all white meat. It is tender and versatile.

One doe can produce 1000% of her own weight in meat in a year. Pretty impressive, isn't it? Rabbits don't require a lot of space to raise them. Along with meat, your rabbits also produce a good amount of manure. Rabbit manure can go straight from the rabbit to the garden. It doesn't need to compost first.

Now that you may be considering raising your own rabbits, you need to provide them with cages. The cages should be in a shed or lean-to that will protect the animals from the weather. The cages can be mounted on the wall or hung from the ceiling. The cages should be large enough for the adult rabbit to have plenty of room to move about in as well as give room for a growing litter.

Wire mesh is the best cage material for raising rabbits. You can see through it easily, letting you take notice of any problems that may be starting. Wire is easy to keep clean. Use heavy duty 14 gauge wire mesh that has been welded together. It should be galvanized to give it longevity. Floors should be made from ½ inch by 1 inch wire while walls and ceilings can be made of 1 inch by 2 inch wire. If you have extra cash, spring for the babysaver wire. This wire has a smaller mesh at the bottom, which can prevent baby bunnies from falling out of the cage.

Put the cage pieces together with J clips or hog rings. Make the door large enough for you to clean the cage easily. It should be big enough that a nestbox can easily fit through it. If you stack your cages, make sure you have some corrugated tin or other material under the top cage at an angle so any droppings and urine will fall behind the cage below. You don't want the rabbits below to be the recipients of the manure from above.

Once your cages are done, fasten them to the wall or hang them from beams in the ceiling using heavy wire or chain. Plan on a regular routine for removing waste materials. Breeding can take place when the rabbits are about six or seven months of age for most breeds. Always take the doe to the buck's cage. If you bring the buck to the doe, she may attack him. Does are very territorial about their cages. When you breed a doe, mark her cage with the date and make note of the date you need to supply her with a nestbox. There are metal card holders you can purchase from rabbit supply companies that hang on the cage. They are just the right size to hold an index card. Always check and double check. You don't want to lose a litter because you forgot to supply the box and bedding.

Breeding Rabbits: Having A Pet Rabbit - Fun Along With Responsibility

2009-05-19T21:39:00.002+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Rabbits are very cute and cuddly and many have the idea that it is very easy to have them as pets. Children love to play with rabbits and as they are soft and cuddly, children like to catch them or hold them. Before deciding to have a rabbit as a pet, you need to learn some points so that you find it easy to maintain them. The first thing that is important is to note that they bite and they don't like to be held or picked up when they are roaming about. So it will be a dangerous thing if you have a small child at home and if the rabbit is caught against their will, they may bite. You cannot train them not to bite in such cases.

Rabbits look very cute and it seems that they are the simplest of pets, as they just have to be caged. But the fact is that they have to be cared for a lot. They need to be taken out of the cage daily and they need to be exercised to keep them healthy. You will have to keep an area especially for them so that they exercise there daily and it should not have any harmful things. You should also keep away important things so that the rabbit doesn't bite and destroy them. Those who have studied about the behavior of the rabbits, are of the opinion that it will also get depressed if it does not get the human touch on regular basis. So you or your child will have to spare some time exclusively for the rabbit and play with it.

It depends upon the breed that how often you have to brush the rabbit because they have a tendency to swallow their own fur, which might lead to intestinal problem or even breathing problems in the rabbit. The rabbit's cage also needs to be cleaned either every day or alternate days. If taken care properly rabbits can live up to 10 years or even more sometimes. Buying a rabbit for a pet is a costly and time taking job. You will have to look after and take care of the rabbit and its habits so that they are maintained in a good health and in hygienic way. You have to take care of the type of food and the nutrition that is important for the rabbit too.

Rabbits are quite destructive sometimes and messy too, because basically it is mischievous. They cannot be trained, not to destroy anything so you will have to keep things away from their reach otherwise rabbits can go to the extent of chewing a shoe, cord or anything that they like. Also you will have to groom your rabbit regularly. Even then you should be prepared to clean up the fur, as they shred them here and there. There is one important point to be noted that most rabbits die of heart attack and they fear children a lot. So by keeping all the things in mind you can have a pet rabbit for your home.

Breeding Rabbits: Consider Getting Health Insurance for Your Rabbit

2009-05-19T21:36:00.002+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Many pet owners have the visitors and companionship of having a pet rabbit in the house. People are attracted to the idea of house rabbits because rabbits are not only jokey and fun to lookout they are also very communities. Rabbits lean to plead to people who like the magnitude and feel of cats but are put off by the snobbish behavior cats sometimes present, most rabbits, if handled suitably, are friendly all the time. Rabbit owners necessary to be concerned that because rabbits are so party the hardship to squander ration of time every day playing with their pet rabbit. Rabbits that do not get enough attention can become depressed. Like cats pet rabbits are low maintenance and easily litter box skilled. Rabbits chew on everything, the best way to standby your furniture is to give your pet rabbit loads and heaps of stringy toys. Rabbits and brood children are not a very good combination, kid's pattern of grabbing and operation around makes rabbits worried and they can beginning arctic, and rabbit bites hurt. If you determine to keep your pet rabbit in the house you want to be prepared to pure the litter box on a reliable basis.

Rabbits poverty to be taken to the veterinarian on an accepted schedule for habit vaccinations and invoice ups. Rabbit owners who keep their rabbits in the house commend spaying and neutering your rabbit. Pet rabbits are not known for their willingness to take medications. If you have to give your pet rabbit liquid mediation you will ought to use a nozzle (just the nozzle not the needle) or an eye dropper. I rather syringes because it is easier to degree the apposite quantity of medication. Holding the rabbits journey and peninsula with one hand slide the squeeze into the rabbit's lips behind the teeth, Check to make steady that the tip of the pump isn't jammed out the other piece of the bragging, thrust the tip of the needle towards the rabbit's throat. Depress the syringes plunger.

If your vet prescribes a medication for your rabbit that is in a pill or pill form you are ready to have to crush up the pill. Once you have crushed the pill into a powder mix it with a little bit of flavored Sustacal or Ensure awaiting you have a pale paste. Use a squirt to administer the paste like a liquid medication.

It only takes being bitten by one vampire for a rabbit to become infected with a plain viral disease call Myxomatosis. Most rabbits die just a few quick hours after contracting the disease. The only way to handle Myxomatosis is to immunize your pet rabbit before it ever comes into commerce with Myxomatosis. Rabbits should be vaccinated when they are six weeks old. Do not give a pregnant rabbit the vaccination; remain awaiting her babies are natural. Rabbits are still at venture for Myxomatosis for fourteen years after being vaccinated. Your pet rabbit will want booster shots.

Health troubles commonly associated with rabbits are uncontrolled bleeding when injured, blood in the urine, defeated bones, breathing problems, declining body temperature, and awful diarrhea. If you would like to foothold an assurance plan to help disguise the price of veterinary expenses for your pet rabbit you will maybe have to look for an exotic animal strategy offer by a pet vigor insurance party.

Breeding Rabbits: Things to Think About Before Acquiring a Rabbit

2009-05-19T21:34:00.001+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Rabbits have been popularly kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Rabbits can adjust well to indoor life, and can even be litter box trained. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention.

Often people purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders under suspicion that some pet stores sell cross bred rabbits. Such a breeder who has a litter of young rabbits available for sale can be found in the newspaper classified ads listed under "Pets" or "Livestock." Some can be found through rabbit breeders' club publications or through rabbit-related magazines, which often include a breeder listing. With the advent of the Internet, many breeders advertise their stock online.

Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it can be stressful for the animal. Many pet shops nearly always carry smaller breeds of rabbit such as the Netherland dwarf, the Holland lop, and the Mini-Rex. These breeds, although smaller than 'normal' rabbits, still live long and healthy lives. A point to note is that often smaller breeds of rabbits are prone to tooth problems such as malocclusion.

Rabbit rescue organizations or a local humane society are increasingly common places to find adult rabbits, who may already be spayed or neutered and docile from handling. Though most rescued rabbits are healthy, some may require special care for health conditions or behavioral problems resulting from prior abuse.

Training and Play

Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit's cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is spayed or neutered.

Rabbits cannot learn voice commands like a dog, but can recognize different patterns of the voice. For instance, If a rabbit is disobeying, for example biting, simply make a high pitched noise, or an extremely bass noise and the message will be conveyed. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more then the words. Rabbits are intelligent, and enjoy games and toys.

It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the pet's reach). Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although they can be trained not to chew.

It is important that if a rabbit is allowed to roam in a house that it be impossible for the rabbit to chew or get into dangerous or valuable items. They do not possess the same comprehension as a dog or a cat, and often don't understand if punished physically; rather they will become scared or confused if some kind of punishment is used, as they do not see the damage they have done. If all this is taken into consideration, rabbits make excellent house pets.

Companionship

Other rabbits

Unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit of the same gender. Generally fighting is a result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly, so a pet owner should not leave them together, even if they do not fight.

Because of these problems, it used to be preferred to keep rabbits caged individually. However, it is becoming common to spay and neuter pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together. Fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems (such as general aggression, biting or withdrawal) which may arise if rabbits are kept single.

Pairs of bonded and desexed rabbits, usually one of each gender to a pair, can often be adopted from animal shelters. These have usually already had all their major expenses taken care of (desexing) and they will rarely fight or harass each other, taking the trouble out of bonding two separate rabbits.

Guinea pigs

Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While some people have seen success with this technique, the current consensus is that rabbits should never be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs. A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. It may be unintentional or due to being startled, since the rabbit is larger and stronger so can seriously injure a guinea pig. They also have differing nutritional requirements, so it is therefore preferable that rabbits and guinea pigs are fed separately. Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C in their diets that rabbits don't. Lack of Vitamin C may lead to scurvy.

Additionally, guinea pigs typically show very little interest in social activities necessary for the rabbit's well-being, such as grooming; this limits the intended benefit of housing the guinea pig and rabbit together in the first place.

Dogs and cats

It is generally recommended that dogs should never be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Cats, on the other hand, can become close and safe potential companions if properly introduced to the rabbit and they are of at least roughly equivalent size. In fact, when the cat is introduced in a home with a resident rabbit, the rabbit sometimes will act aggressively to establish his territory and the cat, which does not have such concerns, will typically cede the point to the resident.

Breeding Rabbits: An Exotic Pet Rabbit

2009-05-19T21:29:00.002+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Every character has his own scale as to the kind of pet he will pass home and take caution of. Generally, people pick dogs or cats as pets since these animals are jolly and easier to take thought of nursing. However, there are people who prefer to take heeding of exotic pets.

Ordinary pets are animals the people ponder as pets because they are warmly domesticated and gentle. On the other hand, exotic pets are animals that aren't commonly found near circle, aren't domesticated and most of them belong with the fierce.

A someone who forecast to get an exotic pet should consider his commitment in caring for such pet. If the motivation is only to have the exotic pet shown off then it is better to think again. Owning an exotic pet is a driving responsibility because they force singular bother.

Parents who are planning to give an exotic pet to their children should elect an exotic pet that is more gentle and can be clearly handled by children. Safety should also be a highest consideration when giving exotic pets to children.

Why not give your newborn a rabbit as an exotic pet? Rabbits are cuddlier and safer compared to other exotic pets like reptiles and the likes. Can you picture your daughter land a boa constrictor for a pet? Of course that would be the day! Nevertheless rabbits, well they look like stuffed toys they don't even look like exotic pets at all!

Rabbits have become a familiar place today because there are people who breed rabbits for matter purposes. Some breed rabbits for their meat while some breed rabbits for reselling. Giving a rabbit to a product as an exotic pet would certainly be appreciated lacking the giver worrying about security and other issues.

Rabbits are somewhat cool to take concerning of excluding of course when you have to give the sincerity when temperatures go down. While rabbits are plain exotic pets, they also need tender loving caution so make clearly to educate the toddler on how to take nurture of the rabbit. Also ask the pet deposit about vaccines that may be given to the rabbit to make effective it is innocent and healthy.

When trade rabbits, make assured you get one with a good pedigree because they have a superior resale regard. In any task, rabbits with known and good pedigrees are better to breed and to take worry of as exotic pets.

Breeding Rabbits: Let's Go Hunting for Rabbits

2009-05-19T21:26:00.001+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

For many people, hunting rabbits is cruel and strange punishment. For others, however, hunting rabbits is an age old sport that requires patience and knack. This clause will address to the later while paying no demur to the past, realizing that the rabbit obtain is as old a tradition in America as hunting other animals and acknowledging that, while hunting may not be vital in any modern situation, it is a heck of a lot of fun.

Most people elect to rummage rabbits with a dog. This is because with a dog can help pass the rabbit out into the open or can help draw the seeker towards the grassland in which the rabbits are more abundant. A dog could also fulfil as a great companion to hunting, enabling the seeker actually to have superstar to talk to instead of the cold steel of the Remington ransack. Still, some people show to quest lacking a furry comrade, making for a different hunting experience.

When people shadow for rabbits lacking a dog, it is important to learn the persona and factors tangled with rabbits. The hunter must virtually become the rabbit; culture the rabbits pathways and food stops are really important to a successful rabbit seek, so thoughts like a rabbit is basic to the victory of the hunt. Of course, thoughts like a rabbit may tell you that murder these furry little links for sport isn't such a great idea. If that happens, flaunt those details and focus in on your goal of bagging a fluffy bunny.

A value time to hunt bunnies is in the first snug existence of give. Here, bunnies will prone be drenched up the sun and having a great time in open fields. This is a great time to infringe out your rifle and depart bagging some rabbits. The time value because, relative to the coldness, the rabbits you seek will be more out in the open and more prone to be obvious to the naked eye. In iciness, rabbits lean stylishly to develop brush shield and brambles to encompass their tracks from snooping bloodhounds.

It is important to grasp the rabbits lean to run from part to area. This, of course, does not mean that you should not actively lookout the rabbit while firing amazingly into the open province. What it does mean is that a hunter can actively trail the alleyway of the rabbit by study for recurring steps in language of the tracking. A rabbit would only run in a curt line for a tiny time, altering velocity and darting back and forth in pointy hops awaiting it reaches its cautious protect. Knowing this, pursue the rabbit with your tracking skills and nail it before it hops down the rabbit aperture and back to Wonderland.

Many hunters make the gaffe of pitiful too swiftly and making too much clamor when hunting rabbits. Just ask Elmer Fudd about the best options for hunting rabbits and he will tell you that the best system for hunting "wabbits" is slowly to stalk the prey before firing off shot after shot from your alarmingly giant elephant gun. The upright fidelity about hunting bunnies is that the system must reduce somewhere in the median. Charging into the center of a known rabbit field with your guns intense will liable not discover you any rabbits, but you do essential to be somewhat pushy to bag a bunny.

The global best system for hunting rabbits is what is known as the "prevent and go" procedure. This skill is right what it sounds like; the essence of the interrupt and go practice is in using tip-toe grace movements and stalking the rabbit through study it, affecting towards it and touching expand towards it. As you can pattern the rabbits' movements, you can eventually squeeze off a shot and bewilder feeble Cottontail in the stem to impress all your friends. If you lose, however, be thorough. Some rabbits actually spiciness.

Breeding Rabbits: How to Buy a Dwarf Rabbit

2009-05-18T07:12:00.003+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

So, you've finally decided on buying a dwarf rabbit! But what should you look for when buying a dwarf rabbit? Are all dwarf bunnies created equal?

Choosing the Right Dwarf Bunny

First off, how old should the dwarf bunny be? Most people firmly believe that 2-3 months is a good time, but older dwarf bunnies can also be excellent choices, depending on how well they were raised/breeder ability.

Where to Get Your Bunny

Before you can even begin to look at dwarf bunnies, you need to know WHERE to look at dwarf bunnies. There are 2 common, and 2 not so common ways of locating the perfect dwarf rabbit; let's look at the most common ways first.

You can get your dwarf rabbit from another person. This is probably the cheapest way of doing so. There are plenty of message boards/classified sites selling dwarf bunnies. You can obtain a dwarf bunny for $10-$35 on average, and even free sometimes if the person is just looking to get rid of the dwarf rabbits. Drawbacks? No pedigree - you don't know what line the dwarf rabbit comes in, he may have a genetic disease or defect. You don't really know anything about the seller at all for that matter - whether the dwarf bunny was raised properly, if the dwarf bunny is old enough - you can only go by what the seller tells you.

A pet store is also an easily accessible option. The pet store dwarf bunnies are probably decently taken care of, and pet stores can usually be trusted to provide healthy pets (I would assume you're going to a proper pet store). Dwarf rabbits from pet stores are generally a good buy.

Now let's discuss the 2 less common methods: breeders, and exhibitors. Exhibitor dwarf bunnies are generally show-class dwarf bunnies. For these, you would most likely have to go to a show. This is more luck then anything. You talk to other breeders, see what they have in stock, look at their dwarf bunnies, and negotiate a deal. These are (usually) high class dwarf rabbits, and as such command higher prices.

Finally, we look to breeders. First, check out breeders in your area. Sources are listed at the end of the article. Make sure the breeder is reputable. Look for pedigree's if possible. Breeders (usually) use the best dwarf rabbits they can find to breed, so these types of dwarf rabbits are also top notch. Decide what color you want - there are many different options available, and choose one to your liking. If the breeder doesn't have it in stock, email back frequently, asking what they expect to have in the coming weeks. Here, you're basically trusting the breeder, but if you've done your research, you'll probably come out a winner.

Traits to Look For in a Dwarf Rabbit

At last! It's time to finally pick out your new friend! Obviously, look at how healthy the dwarf bunny is. NEVER pick up a dwarf bunny by the ears. It makes him/her sad inside. When you pick up the dwarf bunny, use BOTH hands: one hand under, and one hand cupping the dwarf rabbit's butt (and slightly under). The idea here is to support it's rear end, and to try to minimize any injury the dwarf bunny may cause by kicking.

If at all possible, check the dwarf rabbit's droppings. They should be hard and solid. Checking the rear end of the dwarf bunny, it should have no stains (which may be a sign of diarrhea). One neutered male dwarf rabbit would be ideal, or two female dwarf bunnies.

You might be wondering, what is the ideal age to buy a dwarf bunny? Well, the dwarf bunnies are arguably cutest when they're between 5-7 weeks old. Unfortunately, that's also one of the worst times to buy a dwarf bunny. Little defects now may grow into big ones later. While this may not be important for most owners, if you're looking for a show class dwarf bunny, approximately 4 months would be the ideal timeframe to purchase a dwarf bunny.

This Article Written by Michael Dong; www.dwarfrabbitplanet.com

http://www.dwarfrabbitplanet.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Dong

Breeding Rabbits: Rabbit Vaccination and Neutering

2009-05-18T07:11:00.002+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Rabbits are increasingly popular pets within the UK. There are a large number of breeds, which range from the Dutch Dwarf weighing about 1 kg when adult, to the Flemish Giant, which can weigh more than 8 kgs when fully grown.

Housing

As the popularity of the rabbit increases, so does the number that are kept as house pets. However, the majority are still kept in a hutch.

With such a large variation in breed size there is no ideal hutch design or size but there should always be sufficient space for the rabbit to lie at full stretch and to stand up on its hindquarters.
A clean dry bed of wood shavings, hay, straw or newspaper should be provided and inspected daily to avoid the build up of any dirt that could encourage disease.

A secure outdoor run is preferable, which will allow the rabbit to exercise and graze and can also be a site for toys such as tunnels or boxes.

Rabbits kept outdoors should be in a well insulated hutch protected from wind and rain and sheltered from excess sunlight.

Diet

Rabbits are herbivores and have a complex digestive system requiring both digestible and undigestible fibre types.
Fresh grass or hay should make up about three quarters of the diet and other fresh vegetables like carrot or cabbage can be added to provide some variation. Burgess Excel or Supa Excel are top-quality commercially available rabbit diets.
Rabbits need access to clean water at all times. Feed and water bowls should be cleaned daily.

Diarrhoea

Rabbits are prone to digestive disturbances resulting in diarrhoea. This may be serious, and even life threatening. Probiotics such as protexin are particularly helpful in maintaining or restoring the normal gut micro-organisms required to digest food properly.

Diarrhoea often results in matting of the fur around a rabbits anus which can in itself be distressing to your pet, but is also a common cause of 'fly-strike' during the summer months. It is recommended that a preventative application of 'Rearguard' be used early in the summer to prevent maggots. 'Advantage' is a spot-on product normally used for flea control which can also help control flies and maggots. These products are available from your veterinary surgeon.

Reproduction

Rabbits become sexually mature at between 16-24 weeks of age.
Baby rabbits or 'kits' are born after 30-33 days of pregnancy and litter size ranges from
4-12.

To avoid mis-mothering or abandonment, the nest area should not be disturbed and the young kits should not be handled until they are weaned at around 7-8 weeks of age.

Neutering

Rabbits are prolific breeders and care should always be taken to avoid unwanted litters. Neutering not only prevents unwanted matings, but also can make both does and bucks less territorial and aggressive. In addition, does have a very high risk of developing uterine tumours if not neutered.
Bucks are castrated from about 5 months of age. A general anaesthetic is given and both testicles are removed from an incision made on the scrotum.

Does are spayed from about 6 months of age. A general anaesthetic is given and an incision made in the middle of the does tummy. Both ovaries and the uterus are removed during the operation.

Vaccination

Like dogs and cats, rabbits are susceptible to many diseases and some of these can be prevented by routine vaccinations.

Myxomatosis is a viral disease seen commonly in wild rabbits in the UK and unfortunately it can affect pet rabbits too. The disease is spread from infected to non-infected rabbits via flea bites. The virus causes swellings around the eyes, ears and genitals and feeding soon becomes difficult. In the vast majority of cases treatment is futile.

Viral haemorrhagic disease (V.H.D.) is another widespread viral disease that is present in the UK. The disease is spread via direct contact with infected rabbits or contaminated feeding or drinking bowls. Affected rabbits rapidly become ill and often sudden death is the first sign that is seen.

Both Myxomatosis and V.H.D. can be prevented by a single annual vaccination.

Maricel Gomez is the Webmaster of http://www.ivet.co.uk a supplier of pharmacuticals for Pets. Frontline spot from Ivet has a team of dedicated professionals including a pharmacist, a pharmacologist, and two veterinary surgeons who oversee sales and provide the free, practical advice for your pets in the form of numerous on line information sheets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Maricel_Gomez

Breeding Rabbits: How to Breed Successfully

2009-05-18T07:07:00.003+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

It is advised that if you want to breed Mini Lop rabbits successfully, you should leave it to professional breeders. There are a number of reasons for this. Rabbits are born into large litters, so plenty of room is required to look after them unless you have a market for them already. Also young rabbits grow very quickly and are sexually active after eight weeks, so the process continues relentlessly.

However, if you plan to breed them yourself, then choose a doe older than six months and use a slightly younger unrelated buck. Check the bottom of their cages for evidence of diarrhoea and also check genitals for redness and swelling. Select rabbits that have a good breeding productivity history and strong genes and keep strict breeding records for the purpose of showing the animals in the future. One buck to ten does is sufficient for breeding purposes and the buck can be put to stud seven times a week. Only rabbits of the same breed should be bred together and the breed must be pure, going back four generations. Take the doe to the buck. The breeding pair should not be left together after copulation has taken place as the buck may continue to bother the doe afterwards which could lead to fighting and damage to the doe. For a greater likelihood of pregnancy however and greater numbers of kittens, the doe can be put in with the buck again 1-12 hours after initial copulation.

The doe should be checked for pregnancy 10-14 days after initial breeding. This can be done by feeling underneath the doe for growths the size of small marbles. You should place the nesting box next to the doe 29 days after mating. The gestation period is around 31 days. The baby rabbits or kittens are born totally hairless with their eyes closed and the litter usually numbers between 4-10. The kittens should not be touched within the first week as the doe may kill them. From three months old, rabbits should be kept in individual cages as they mature more quickly.

The doe can be rebred at 6 weeks and the kittens should be weaned between 5-7 weeks. Small breeds like the Mini Lop produce around 14 kittens a year. The doe's reproductive cycle can continue until she is around 4 years old. Conceptions should be reviewed every quarter to determine which animals are breeding up to par and which are not. Many do not conceive from October to December whilst in moult. Lights in the rabbit run will help with this. Also the buck produces less sperm during particularly hot summer months.

The Mini Lop rabbit's ears are erect when it is born but they will drop over time. There are a variety of different colours in this breed, some examples being: chocolate, blue otter, cinnamon agouti, agouti, black and white butterfly, and fawn and white butterfly.

Strive to maintain a good standard by obtaining the ARBA Standard of Perfection Booklet to know exactly what is expected of the breed.

For all of the latest information and to see pictures of our mini lop rabbits please visit Mini Lop Rabbits.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amanda_Isbitt

Breeding Rabbits: Decide to Purchase a Pet Rabbit

2008-06-16T09:36:00.005+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

So you have decided to purchase a pet rabbit, and now you are wondering how do I pick out the right one?

Well, aside from appearance, there are a number of important considerations that you will have to make when you pick out your pet bunny rabbit at the local pet store or other venue. This is important both to ensure that you choose a healthy pet rabbit, and to make sure that you and he are compatible!

Now I'll explain what you'll need to think about before heading out to buy your pet rabbit, and what to look for when you're actually selecting an animal from a local breeder, adoption center or pet store.

Housing: Do You Have Enough Space for a Pet Rabbit?

When it comes to tame pet bunny rabbits, they do much better indoors than outdoors. Living indoors will ensure that your pet bunny rabbit stays healthy and safe and gets to know the members of your family. Rabbits kept in outdoor cages are at risk of being threatened by other animals; foxes, dogs, and raccoons have been known to open cage doors.

Therefore, before you decide to bring home a pet rabbit, make sure that you have plenty of space inside your house for your new animal friend. For most rabbits, plan on buying a cage that is either 30 inches square, or 2 feet by 3 feet. You will also need to make sure that you have enough room inside your home to fit a cage of this size. If you don't have space for a cage, you will not be able to provide a rabbit with an adequate living situation.

Keep in mind that the cage should not just be placed in any old spot, but should put somewhere where the rabbit can feel connected and close to the family. At the same time, the rabbit cage should be away from heaters, air conditions, loud objects like TVs or radios, and not in direct sunlight. Since you will be letting your rabbit out of his cage for exercise, you will also need to put the cage in an area that can be bunny-proofed. (more on that later...)

Your Time Investment

A lot of people seem to think that because rabbits are relatively small and spend a good deal of time in their cages that they're easy to take care of. Well, that may be true in some sense, but it's foolish to bring home a rabbit thinking that it's not going to be much of a time commitment. If you are not willing to spend time with your pet rabbit, then you probably should not get him. This, of course, applies to all pet animals!

Well, here's what to expect. You should ensure that you have plenty of time for all the initial and intermediate stages of pet care, which include:

- Rabbit-proofing your house to make sure the little guy won't get hurt
- Litter box training
- Cleaning up after the inevitable accidents
- Spaying/neutering

You will also need to devote a good deal of time to your rabbit well after you bring him home for the first time. You must:

- Give him exercise (at least a few hours per day out of the cage)
- Give him attention (just like any pet or child, rabbits need to feel love!)
- Buy and provide rabbit toys
- Administer feedings
- Take him to the vet if necessary and for check-ups

Above all, just keep in mind that bringing home a new pet bunny rabbit is not so different from bringing home a new infant. You will need to spend adequate time preparing for the arrival, as well as adjusting to life with the newcomer. Setting aside time for all these necessities will make for a happy, comfortable situation for everyone involved.

Before bringing home a pet rabbit, make sure that you can commit to giving him the quality of lifestyle he deserves throughout his lifetime (5-15 years, depending on the rabbit-s breed and age and health at the time of purchase).

by Andrea Austin,
http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

Breeding Rabbits: Rabbits can be great pets

2008-06-16T09:34:00.003+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Rabbits or a rabbit are fast becoming the pet of choice for many people, both children and adults. Traditionally rabbits as pets have been kept outdoors in a cage or pen. While that is still the most popular method of keeping your pet, many people have decided to move their rabbit into the house with the rest of the family.

When moving a pet rabbit from outdoors to the inside there’s a bit of adjustment time necessary. Even while indoors you’ll need to keep your rabbits or rabbit in a roomy space that is set up just for them. Then, gradually let out into the larger area of the house for ever increasing periods of time. As with any indoor pets, you can expect a few bite marks on various pieces of furniture.

Rabbits are curious and friendly yet easy to care for.

Having rabbits or a rabbit as pets can be very exciting and educational for children. Their soft fur, long ears and every inquisitive nose make rabbits an ideal pet for a family with children or for someone who lives alone. If you’re a pet lover who’s never tried raising a rabbit, consider the experience of raising rabbits as pets. They require little attention, (fresh water everyday, a dry clean living area and good food such as plants and pet store rabbit food).
Whether you keep your rabbits indoors or out you’ll enjoy their friendly, quiet nature and will fast become a favorite member of your family.

Breeding Rabbits: Benefits of Rabbits as Pets

2008-06-16T09:28:00.003+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Are you thinking of adopting a rabbit for a pet? We don’t blame you—rabbits are very cute animals, who can give you many years of affection and amusement.

However, be sure you are ready for the responsibilities of taking care of this animal. While they are certainly easier to manage than dogs, they still require some attention.

For example, rabbits molt four times a year, so be prepared for a little fur on your sofa every few months. They’ll need hay, a litter box, and a cage (clean frequently with white vinegar to remove odors). If you use hay or woodstove pellets for their litter boxes, you can use these to fertilize your garden when it’s time for a litter change.

When you own a rabbit, you need to accept that a little nibbling is part of the territory. Protect electric cords with casings (available at hardware stores) since the poor pets may get quite a shock if they try to test their teeth on them!

You should also be willing to pamper your rabbit with petting and play (rabbits get depressed if they don’t get enough exercise). Rabbit gyms are available in pet stores. They have tube tunnels that will encourage your pet to run and race, even if you can’t let him out in the garden. Those tube tunnels will also make an interesting conversation piece for your guests—talk about the “new” form of “installation art”!

Not all veterinarians are trained to take care of rabbits, who are considered “exotic pets”/ You may need to shop around and call various clinics, which are usually listed in the phone directory. The pet store may also refer you to veterinarians. .

And finally, if you have children, do talk to your pediatrician first before buying a rabbit. The doctor is in the best position to tell you whether your child has any allergies, asthma problems or other health concerns that may be aggravated by rabbit fur. It’s better to be safe than sorry!

But these sacrifices are nothing compared to the benefits of having a pet rabbit. For one thing, your pet will inspire you to change your diet—since you have to keep a supply of fresh vegetables for him, you might as well make yourself a salad! Recent studies also reveal that owning a pet significantly reduces blood pressure and can even help with depression.

You don’t need to take rabbits for a walk, or worry about the inconvenience of walking around with a “pooper scooper”. Just let him out in the early morning or dusk, and watch him play while you enjoy a cup of coffee.

Nor do you have to worry about your rabbits disrupting the neighbors. They don’t bark or meow, and the “loudest” they ever get is the patter of their feet on the floor. That makes them ideal pets for apartment dwellers.

Rabbits are also ideal pets for the elderly, who may not have the energy to take care of a very large animal. They love being petted and are the ideal “lap pets”.

Article source: http://ezinearticle.com

Breeding Rabbits: Care for Rabbits in the Summer

2008-06-16T09:23:00.003+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Rabbits are very playful, fun, and intelligent creatures, and they're adorable as well. If you're a parent that was tempted (perhaps at Easter) to purchase a rabbit as a pet for your children, be aware that they require a great deal of care, and they are very sensitive creatures.

With summer heating up, be aware that rabbits are extremely sensitive to the heat, and if they don't have a way to cool off, they can die. There are many ways, however, to help them cool down, if you have an outdoor bunny. One great way is to fill a 2 liter soda bottle with water, freeze it, and place it next to your bunny's favorite resting spot. (Depending on how hot it is outside, you may need to change it every couple of hours.) Also, make sure to always have plenty of water available to your bunny, preferably in a dish. (Ceramic crocks work well since they're tough for bunnies to knock over.) This way, they can put their feet or ears in the water, which is another way to help them cool off.

Bunnies are creatures of habit, so if you're traveling with your bunny, make sure to have all of his or her favorite toys, treats, and food. Changing food can upset a bunny's stomach, oftentimes causing diarrhea, which can quickly dehydrate a bunny (and can lead to death). Make sure to keep the routine as close to normal as possible, and this will help your bunny travel.

Another thing to keep in mind: never EVER leave your bunny in a car. On an 80 degree day, within just a few minutes, the car can heat up to over 120 degrees. Keep your bunny safe - if you go to a restaurant, make sure it's pet friendly. It doesn't take long for animals to overheat with temperatures like that.

Use common sense when taking care of your pet, and remember that with a thick fur coat, bunnies don't do well in heat at all. If you have an outdoor bunny, take the necessary precautions to keep your bunny healthy and happy. Take care of your pet, and you'll be able to enjoy his or her companionship for 12 years or more.

Article Source: http://ezinearticle.com

Breeding Rabbits: Taking Care of a Pet Rabbit

2008-06-16T09:13:00.003+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Most of us are probably familiar with the quintessential image of the rabbit-a fluffy, cuddly white bunny delivered into the arms of delighted children on Easter morning, surrounded by sweets and colored eggs. Unfortunately, this picture-perfect holiday symbol that has placed many a pet rabbit into a less-than-ideal situation. Taking care of a pet rabbit is not a holiday novelty; it's agreeing to assume full responsibility for the needs of a living creature. If it sounds like welcoming a rabbit into your home is serious business requiring lots of thought and planning, that's because it is! But it also offers an exciting, unique pet ownership experience-for those who are willing to put in the time and effort to learn the ins and outs of pet rabbit care.

Rabbits require a certain kind of home environment in order to thrive. Contrary to the popular image, they are not suitable pets for young children, even if the intention is to teach responsibility by allowing the child to care for a pet rabbit. Rabbits frighten easily and are extremely fragile when it comes to being handled. A sudden noise or movement can actually frighten them to death, while one instance of mishandling could break bones or damage internal organs. Therefore, a home full of running, yelling children is not a happy home for a rabbit. Rabbits need to feel secure at all times, so a large part of taking care of a pet rabbit is offering it a fairly constant atmosphere of peace and quiet, and a major component of offering that secure atmosphere is providing your rabbit with proper housing.

There are two basic options when it comes to rabbit-keeping: to cage or not to cage. Traditionally, rabbits have been kept in outdoor cages (called a "hutches") with a wire bottom and sides, a solid top, and a solid wooden nesting box. An outdoor hutch is still a viable option, provided serious effort is applied to making the hutch completely weatherproof. For those who truly wish to keep their rabbits inside, a large cage similar to a hutch can be integrated into the household, and for those who truly wish to live with their rabbits, a rabbit can be kept much as you'd keep a cat-running free in the house. Rabbits love to be near "their people," and if given the chance, will follow you around as you do your daily chores. They are easily litter box trained and are relatively tidy overall. For safety's sake, it's a very good idea to confine your rabbit to a single, rabbit-proofed room, unless he or she is under close supervision. Many people keep their rabbits in an empty bedroom or in the kitchen by blocking off the door with a baby gate. Rabbit-proofing involves ridding the area of chew-ables such as books, papers, toys, or anything else you don't want gnawed-especially electrical cords. You should also ensure that there are no small spaces for your rabbit to squeeze into.

Whether you decide to keep your rabbit in a cage, let him roam freely about your kitchen, or a combination of both, the other major consideration in taking care of a pet rabbit is ensuring that fresh water and proper food are available at all times. Water can either be made available in a heavy dish or in a cage-hanging water bottle. A rabbit's diet should consist mainly of formulated rabbit pellets, a little fresh hay, and treats such as carrots, apples, and leafy greens (not iceberg lettuce!). Rabbits will eat just about anything, but that doesn't mean you should feed them whatever they desire. They have delicate digestive systems that are easily thrown off balance by the sudden introduction of foreign foods, so try to keep your rabbit's diet as simple and junk-free as possible.

Now that you've learned how to care for a pet rabbit, it's time to find your new best friend. While pet stores and breeders are always an option, consider checking to see if there's a rabbit rescue near your home, or call your local animal shelters to ask if they have any abandoned rabbits available for adoption. Whatever your decision, make sure it's one that promises your new friend he'll have a forever home with you, and he'll pay you back tenfold with unending affection and companionship.

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Breeding Rabbits: How to Breed Rabbits

2008-06-16T09:05:00.002+07:00

Breeding Rabbits

Successful rabbit breeding depends on the availability of the stock to produce good animals and on the breeder's selection of the best animals for breeding. Good records will help you make stock selections. The rabbit's size and average mature weight for the breed are important factors in determining breeding age.

Sexual maturity:

Sexual maturity varies from four to nine months of age, depending on the breed. Smaller breeds mature earlier than larger breeds, with six months as the average first mating age for does. Eggs develop in the ovaries of mature females every 15 to 16 days. These eggs may be fertilized from the second to the 14th day of the 16-day period. Bucks usually mare about one month later than does. Young bucks should be mated only twice a week; older bucks may mate two or three days in a row, but not more than three times per week.

Natural mating:

Natural mating provides the best conception rate. A receptive doe appears restless, tries to join rabbits in adjacent cages, engages in chin rubbing and exhibits a reddening of external genitalia. Does ready for mating should be placed in the buck's cage. A buck placed in a doe's cage may spend too much time examining the new cage, or worse, the doe might feel threatened and attack.

If the doe rejects the buck, she should be removed to be placed with the buck the next day. Does should only be left with bucks for a short time. If mating does not occur in five or ten minutes, the doe should be removed and taken to a different buck. The mating is complete when the buck falls over on his back or side after mounting.

Bucks

Breeders usually keep one buck for every 10 does. Accurate records must be maintained to determine each buck's effectiveness. Some breeders use artificial insemination to reduce the number of bucks they need. With artificial insemination, the buck's semen is obtained, extended and introduced into does. Experience and training, however, are needed for this method to work.

Second mating

Eggs are released from the ovary about 10 hours after breeding. If you practice double-mating, the second mating should occur within ten hours of the first. If conception does not occur, the doe goes through a 17-day false pregnancy. The doe may be re-bred on the day after kindling (or birthing) but most commercial breeders wait 14 to 21 days after kindling before re-breeding.